Progress!

While I'm working on my designs and schedule for the projects for my expert panel in September, I returned to a project that I really wanted to complete well before this -- and certainly before the "all couching all the time"  -- the sample for my German Brick Stitch class.

Here is a picture of the completed embroidery.

Because I made the mistake of working it all the way to the frame, the edges aren't quite neat enough, but I'll fix that once it's off the frame and I can get at the holes.  Then I'll trim the edges and do a lining.  The line where the design changes will be the bottom, and the top and bottom will be the opening at the top of the bag.  I'll attach lining pieces to the two ends then sew the lining seams (side and bottom).  The bag I'll fold wrong sides facing and fold in the side seams and over stitch - first with some linen, and then with one of the silks for a decorative edge.  That will prevent the need to turn it after stitching which can put extra stress on those seams.  The lining bag will tuck in, and then a drawstring will go in at the top.  Photos of the finishing will be a future blog.

Overall I'm happy with the piece as a teaching piece.  I would normally do all one design, but I wanted the teaching piece to have an easier and a more difficult counting design offered.

Now, on to preparing for next weekend's event, where I will be working on the Marshall hanging and enjoying time with other fiber arts folks.

Randomness - German Altar Frontal - maybe not the one you think

Many people who study medieval textiles are familiar with this late 14th Century piece at the Cloisters. A quick look back, I'm not sure I've talked about it, but that's for another day -- I certainly have photos enough of the piece which incorporates brick stitch in a different manner than the bags, pillows and box covering I've talked about lately.

Today, I decided to turn to LACMA (L.A. County Museum of Art) for a random piece.  I entered the search phrase "Embroidery medieval," and this was the one hit. (There are other pieces within "SCA  Period" but that's the one that came up for that particular word search.) It has a very different style to the background, yet it does have those lovely figures with the brick stitch fills, and very similar colors.

I will certainly be giving this piece some closer study soon.  I was going to do some of that study and say more, but I want to get this posted -- running late because my cat decided that this evening was the perfect time to learn whether she can be in the exact same place as a (full) glass of red wine.  Hint: no.  Good thing we had an extra keyboard around the house.

Germany, Lower Saxony, circa 1380 LACMA M.79.48

Teaching .. and an update

First, about the teaching

For the past two weekends I have had the opportunity to teach about German Brick Stitch.  This was the "shorter, one hour, small motif" version of the class I am working on for March (at this event).

The models for the one hour one motif class.

First, was in Delaware.  I had a total of 10 students (it's a good thing I always bring a few extras of materials!).  Walking in skill level ranged from complete novice to very experienced in other counted forms.  I believe the students enjoyed the class and walked away interested in the form.  I did give myself a few "notes" -- things to work on or change, and I made a couple of changes to the handout as a result.

Then, just this past weekend I taught again in Massachusetts. This time I had 12 students (I think, that number is based on the the fact that I walked in with 13 hand outs and out with 1).  Again, I think the students enjoyed it. In fact, I know one did, as she has posted that she now wants to German Brick Stitch all the things. Here is a picture of her completed piece:

Completed class project by Susan Young

I have again walked away with some thoughts and changes to make.  I plan to make those changes to the handout for the one hour class and then adjust it so that it can be put on the web as a self directed project. 

For those who want more information on German Brick Stitch, I recommend the website of Master Richard Wymarc. I provided copies of one of his pages with the class, and the chart for this motif comes from his materials.  Such a lucky man to have been able to spend so much time studying the pieces at the V&A.  I hope that my students visit his site and continue to grow in the form.

Now, for the update. Do you remember this post about the Pel/Laurel medallion I did for a coronation cloak?  That would be this one:

Well, the event in Delaware was a royal progress, and I was amazed to hear my own name called out to approach Her Majesty of the East.  Her Majesty of Meridies had arranged for my Queen to be her hands to present me with the Meridian Majesty, name me an Embroiderer to her Court and present me with her token.  I was very lucky no one approached me with a feather, because I would have been on the ground.  I remain touched and honored.  During the week that followed a video was posted of my Laurel and my apprentice sister receiving the same award and honors for that cloak, at, we believe, about the same time. 

Now, on to finish writing the longer Brick Stitch class, and more work on Couching and Laid work pieces!  If you took either class, I'd love to receive photos of your completed project -- I'll be setting up a "classes" page and will include them there.  

Another process post.

When last we left the process of creating my German Brick Stitch class (here) I had selected materials and was about to settle on design.

Stage 3 Design confirmation

I knew that I want to jump from some of Master Richard Wymark's patterns.  They are clear and concise, and he had the advantage of being able to study the original pieces extensively.   After a little fiddling around, I stayed with my original plan to bounce from the item identified as part of a stole or mantle.  This is a nice easy pattern, all the stitches are the same four count. This will be the first part stitched in the final project and the one covered in the class. I have strayed from my original plan for the second design, moving to a different embroidered bag design.  It is similar to the one I was originally going to use.  It is a more complex design, requiring a little more attention to counting as the stitches vary in length from two to six count. 

For the class both designs will use the same colors: dark red, dark gold, yellow, blue (all silk) and white (linen).  

Stage 4 Stitch testing

Finally, it was time to test everything.  Normally for testing for a project, I just do a small bit of stitching including all colors on a "scrap" piece of fabric.  In this case, however, "stitch testing" was actually "kit testing" -- make sure the information will translate, confirm how much thread will be needed, consider shots to take for the handout.

I started by assembling my frame and marking the stitch area.  The piece will be stitched on a rectangle -- half in one design and half in the other.  When removed from the frame it will be folded in half and sewing up on the sides to make a bag.  I am not including photos of how I marked out the stitch area -- because it is not the way it will be done for class.  Not that I don't want to show I can mess up too, but because I don't want to confuse people.

Finally, I began to stitch.

Here is the main motif done in colors selected.  To make the project a little easier, I am dropping the animal motifs and simply doing an alternation of the motif as shown and the motif done with white linen thread and filled with the dark gold.  All motifs will have the blue "spots."

The reasoning behind the revision relates mostly to streamlining the design for learning -- and for reduction in the number of colors needed.

I completed the first half and quickly determined that the Trebizond silk I bought will not be the recommended thread for this as a learning project.  This photo shows one of the reasons.  Trebizond is picky.  It twists up, coverage is inconsistent from color to color and to have enough to finish the project it will be *expensive*. The kits will not be inexpensive, but the Trebizond was going to make it very much so.

Of course, I'll finish my first bag with the Trebizond, but the second one will be done with Splendor -- one of the recommended threads.  yes, there will be a second one, I still have to do photos for the handout.

 Progress shot. Once I had the first motif in place, I placed the rest of the lattice, first in the red, then the gold.  All those diamonds will be filled in once the center motifs are placed.

 Here all the motifs have been completed, ready to fill.

And finally, the full piece -- or the one half.

Ultimately, I did a larger area than we will do for the class.  This gave me a solid 'feel' for the design and plenty of opportunities to determine recommended stitch and working order.





I'm working on the second side now, the lattice is in place and the center motifs have been started.   Then, I just need to write up the handout (while doing a second, smaller piece).

Process Post...

At one point I asked for ideas of posts, and one of the requests was for one (or maybe a series) on "process."

So, here's a process post.  I was recently asked to teach a class in March with the proviso that I need to have write up *and sample photos* ready by the beginning of January. Since I'll be needing to take photos at each step for illustration of the hand out, I thought it would be a good topic for a series of process posts.  I will probably time some of them to be after the info is sent to the coordinator, but here's the beginning.

The class will be on German Brick Stitch.  There is, of course the materials webbed by Master Richard Wymarc (http://www.wymarc.com/asoot/asoot.php) (Timothy J. Mitchell), originally an issue of The Compleat Anachronist in July 1996.

Stage 1: Design selection  I started from Master Wymarc's website, being an excellent source of designs and information regarding existing pieces.  I decided that I want to offer a small pouch for the project, and that it should have both an easy-to-execute design and one with slightly more complex counting.  For the simpler design, I decided on elements from the piece "Part of a Stole or Maniple."  This one qualifies as a simpler design because the stitches are all the same length, and are fairly repetative (and if I use only the flowers, they will be completely repetative).  For something with a bit more counting involved I chose one of the patterns titled "An Embroidered Bag." Ultimately, I will prepare a design based on these two charts which will use one on one side and the other for the other side of the final bag.

Stage 2: Color and Material selection.  Having decided on the inspiration designs, I proceeded to color choice.  First, I determined in what ways I'll change the colors.  I want the two sides of the bag to coordinate, and I want to keep the number of colors down as much as possible. I decided that the final color set will be blue, red, yellow, "old gold" and white.  I will use red where the simpler design calls for red and the more complex calls for purple.  The old gold will replace the green.  Blue, yellow and white will remain the same (although I may swap yellow and white on the simpler design to avoid too much yellow on gold... or not, that will be determined in the testing phase).  A trip to the needlework store was next in order.  I pulled one each of the blue, red, gold and yellow DMC referenced by Master Wymarc as reference colors, then looked at the threads available.  From prior projects, I knew I want to use silk approximately the size of Perle 5.  I looked at both Grandeur by Rainbow Threads and Trebizond.  I finally chose the Trebizond - look at that sheen!  I will admit that I played a little with the colors to achieve a palate that I found pleasing. I was luck y enough to find a piece of Congress Cloth (my preferred ground for Brick Stitch) in eggshell in the remainders bin that should be *just about* the right size (class pieces will be cut with more precision).  Finally, a set of stretcher bars (a pair of 6" and a pair of 11" and a box of tack were added to my purchase.

Next up will be finalizing the specific pattern and testing the colors together.