Thursday, Thursday

I really do like Thursday.  Close to the end of the week, but far enough from the weekend to believe I'll get done the things I wanted to get done before the weekend. You will notice not much has changed.... Maybe I should start putting the changes in italics or highlighted :)

Current project list/status (SCA/Historic):

• Applique piece for C&L -- I may have fallen down the research rabbit hole and really need to settle on something.
• Couched cord piece for C&L -- I have looked at a few design inspiration ideas for something to do on my husband's tunic for this element.
• Class this is (mostly) done, for now.  I do have some more work to do on the sample and the re-write on the handout.  
• Marshall Hanging -- No, nothing new.    
• Hem stitched square -- This is officially my current "work on at events" project.  At the same event last weekend I learned some more open work, and am now deciding whether to make this square an overall open work piece or do that on something different. I learned some pulled (diverted thread) work at the Embroidery Schola in February, and this piece has a nice big central area just asking for some decoration.
• That silk tunic I did for my husband -- still need to pull that out and get the seam finishing done, and maybe plan some more embroidery for it. 

• Other garb waiting in the wings... Also in planning are a couple more coifs -- and shifts and shirts.  
• Research.  I've started trolling for inspirational ideas.  My Pinterest boards are overflowing with "oh, that looks cool...."

Current project list/status (Modern)

• Bay of Fundy Scarf.  A few more rows have been knit on this.  I'm enjoying it again, but will be glad when it's done.  I can tell because I've been looking at patterns and even bought some yarn and a pattern for probably my next project. 
• Clothing for work.  This may have to be moved up a bit, as one of my favorite skirts just gave its last.  Now I really need to find pink fabric I like because I cannot imagine not having something in that dark rich pink in my wardrobe.  Of course, I *could* get around to doing the hem on the black and white, that would help.  
• Studio project. A number of things have migrated back to the studio (where, admittedly, they belong), and a few things in the studio need to come out.  I need to determine a day each month for specifically concentrating on getting everything back to where it belongs, which should help keep this room organized. This did not happen in January, or February, or March... Help me April, you're my only hope!

Future project plans: (look, a new section) AKA "In the queue"

• Additional C&L work to do includes an underside couched piece (having been reminded of a thing I knew of one that is not metal thread).
• Knitting plans include the newly purchased pattern and yarn for a pretty wild cowl and fingerless gloves with more of the alpaca that I'm using on the Bay of Fundy scarf.  I also got some lovely blue silk/wool blend that I'll need to find "just the right pattern" for.

Blog notes:

• Still working on a three day a week pattern -- Monday for SCA/Medieval/Renaissance related; Tuesday for post 1600 to modern related and Thursdays for status updates.
• I'm also considering a couple other pages -- one for links to museums and other excellent web resources, and one for a bibliography (with appropriate links).  Any requests? 

So, that's it for my plans for the coming weeks.  

Thursday honesty....

I have weeks like this, weeks where I really don't feel like any embroidery or knitting or .... Of course, there's usually some research those weeks, and there was this week.  That said, here's my honesty:

Current project list/status (SCA/Historic):

• Applique piece for C&L -- Some of the research I did was aimed at getting off the starting block for this one. 
• Couched cord piece for C&L -- I have looked at a few design inspiration ideas for something to do on my husband's tunic for this element.
• Class this is (mostly) done, for now.  All the mailing has gone out.  I do have some more work to do on the sample and the re-write on the handout.  
• Marshall Hanging -- No, nothing new.    
• Hem stitched square -- This is officially my current "work on at events" project.  At the same event last weekend I learned some more open work, and am now deciding whether to make this square an overall open work piece or do that on something different. I learned some pulled (diverted thread) work at the Embroidery Schola in February, and this piece has a nice big central area just asking for some decoration.
• That silk tunic I did for my husband -- still need to pull that out and get the seam finishing done, and maybe plan some more embroidery for it. 

• Other garb waiting in the wings... Also in planning are a couple more coifs -- and shifts and shirts.  
• Research.  I've started trolling for inspirational ideas.  My Pinterest boards are overflowing with "oh, that looks cool...." I've got lots ready to write a nice meaty Tuesday post on ... but that would be a spoiler.

Current project list/status (Modern)

• Bay of Fundy Scarf.  A few more rows have been knit on this.  I'm enjoying it again, but will be glad when it's done.  I can tell because I've been looking at patterns and even bought some yarn and a pattern for probably my next project. 
• Clothing for work.  This may have to be moved up a bit, as one of my favorite skirts just gave its last.  Now I really need to find pink fabric I like because I cannot imagine not having something in that dark rich pink in my wardrobe.  Of course, I *could* get around to doing the hem on the black and white, that would help.  
• Studio project. A number of things have migrated back to the studio (where, admittedly, they belong), and a few things in the studio need to come out.  I need to determine a day each month for specifically concentrating on getting everything back to where it belongs, which should help keep this room organized. This did not happen in January, or February, or even yet in March..... Maybe some of that studio time on Sunday can be devoted to this.

Future project plans: (look, a new section) AKA "In the queue"

• Additional C&L work to do includes an underside couched piece (having been reminded of a thing I knew of one that is not metal thread).
• Knitting plans include the newly purchased pattern and yarn for a pretty wild cowl and fingerless gloves with more of the alpaca that I'm using on the Bay of Fundy scarf.  I also got some lovely blue silk/wool blend that I'll need to find "just the right pattern" for.

Blog notes:

• Still working on a three day a week pattern -- Monday for SCA/Medieval/Renaissance related; Tuesday for post 1600 to modern related and Thursdays for status updates.
• I'm also considering a couple other pages -- one for links to museums and other excellent web resources, and one for a bibliography (with appropriate links).  Any requests? 

So, that's it for my plans for the coming weeks.  

Thursday/Friday

Today was like Friday because my office is closed tomorrow.  Also, it's been a weird week.  That said, here's my honesty:

Current project list/status (SCA/Historic):

• Applique piece for C&L -- I have jettisoned the original plan and will be looking for something new.  I finally admitted to myself (*before cutting fabric and starting, that's a plus*) that I was shoehorning one thing into another and it really wasn't a good fit.  I do have a couple other inspiration pieces to look at and some plans...
• Couched cord piece for C&L -- I have looked at a few design inspiration ideas for something to do on my husband's tunic for this element.
• Class this is (mostly) done, for now.  I do have some mailing out to do, and still need to write up the "finishing" section -- then I'll work on adjusting both write ups (the "fob" and the bag) for posting on a new page I'll be setting up -- "classes."
• Marshall Hanging -- No, nothing new.    
• Hem stitched square -- This is officially my current "work on at events" project.  At the same event last weekend I learned some more open work, and am now deciding whether to make this square an overall open work piece or do that on something different. I learned some pulled (diverted thread) work at the Embroidery Schola in February, and this piece has a nice big central area just asking for some decoration.
• That silk tunic I did for my husband -- still need to pull that out and get the seam finishing done, and maybe plan some more embroidery for it. 

• Other garb waiting in the wings... Also in planning are a couple more coifs -- and shifts and shirts.  

Current project list/status (Modern)

• Bay of Fundy Scarf.  A few more rows have been knit on this.  I'm enjoying it again, but will be glad when it's done.  I can tell because I've been looking at patterns and even bought some yarn and a pattern for probably my next project. 
• Clothing for work.  This may have to be moved up a bit, as one of my favorite skirts just gave its last.  Now I really need to find pink fabric I like because I cannot imagine not having something in that dark rich pink in my wardrobe.  Of course, I *could* get around to doing the hem on the black and white, that would help.  
• Studio project. A number of things have migrated back to the studio (where, admittedly, they belong), and a few things in the studio need to come out.  I need to determine a day each month for specifically concentrating on getting everything back to where it belongs, which should help keep this room organized. This did not happen in January, or February, or even yet in March..... Maybe some of that studio time on Sunday can be devoted to this.

Future project plans: (look, a new section) AKA "In the queue"

• Additional C&L work to do includes an underside couched piece (having been reminded of a thing I knew of one that is not metal thread).
• Knitting plans include the newly purchased pattern and yarn for a pretty wild cowl and fingerless gloves with more of the alpaca that I'm using on the Bay of Fundy scarf

Blog notes:

• Still working on a three day a week pattern -- Monday for SCA/Medieval/Renaissance related; Tuesday for post 1600 to modern related and Thursdays for status updates.
• I'm also considering a couple other pages -- one for links to museums and other excellent web resources, and one for a bibliography (with appropriate links).  Any requests? 

So, that's it for my plans for the coming weeks.  

Applique Research

One of the supporting projects for the expert panel is to be an example of "couched cord around applique."  I've played with a couple of ideas for this project, with none of them really "sticking."  Then, I heard about the heraldic display challenge for Mudthaw.  Heraldic banner -- that's it!

Applique is great for banners and hangings.  It is a great way to cover a large area of fabric with a design, and is (or can be) quick to do.  Because of the usual "up there" nature of the display of banners, it is also usually a less "fussy" form of embroidery.  (Applique can also be very very fussy, but that's not what I'm going to be doing).  It is also a form that spans centuries.

So, I started looking at banners with applique and couched cord.

There's this Spanish banner at the Met.

Banner, Spanish 1596. Met Accession No. 58.172 Gift of Melvin Gutman

And then there's this long Spanish one at the Boston Museum of Fine Art.


For quite a while these two pieces were vying for the place of honor as the "inspiration piece" for my project.

Tab from a banner
Ashmolean Accession No.  EA 1984.134

However, there is another group of applique that really sings to my heart -- several pieces of Egyptian work like this one at the Met and this one at the Ashmolean.

Fragment, 13th-14th century Egypt. Met Accession No. 1974-1131

Fragment Late 14th to Mid 15th Century
Met Accession No. 1972.120.2

Fragment Late 15th to Early 16th Century
Met Accession No. 1972.120.3

Those examples do not have the couched cord around the appliqued figures, but this and this one at the Met do.






My final design is a bit of an amalgam of these.  It will be a banner of linen on linen, using mostly white or off white.  To use SCA heraldry, there will also be blue and gold -- as the final banner will display the household badge my husband and I registered.

This weekend I'll be pulling out fabrics and getting the pieces cut.  I may have to actually fabricate cord from silk threads, but we'll see.  This may mean another trip to Fireside, but since I'll be heading there Saturday for the final shopping for my class the following weekend, that's not a problem.

Process Post...

At one point I asked for ideas of posts, and one of the requests was for one (or maybe a series) on "process."

So, here's a process post.  I was recently asked to teach a class in March with the proviso that I need to have write up *and sample photos* ready by the beginning of January. Since I'll be needing to take photos at each step for illustration of the hand out, I thought it would be a good topic for a series of process posts.  I will probably time some of them to be after the info is sent to the coordinator, but here's the beginning.

The class will be on German Brick Stitch.  There is, of course the materials webbed by Master Richard Wymarc (http://www.wymarc.com/asoot/asoot.php) (Timothy J. Mitchell), originally an issue of The Compleat Anachronist in July 1996.

Stage 1: Design selection  I started from Master Wymarc's website, being an excellent source of designs and information regarding existing pieces.  I decided that I want to offer a small pouch for the project, and that it should have both an easy-to-execute design and one with slightly more complex counting.  For the simpler design, I decided on elements from the piece "Part of a Stole or Maniple."  This one qualifies as a simpler design because the stitches are all the same length, and are fairly repetative (and if I use only the flowers, they will be completely repetative).  For something with a bit more counting involved I chose one of the patterns titled "An Embroidered Bag." Ultimately, I will prepare a design based on these two charts which will use one on one side and the other for the other side of the final bag.

Stage 2: Color and Material selection.  Having decided on the inspiration designs, I proceeded to color choice.  First, I determined in what ways I'll change the colors.  I want the two sides of the bag to coordinate, and I want to keep the number of colors down as much as possible. I decided that the final color set will be blue, red, yellow, "old gold" and white.  I will use red where the simpler design calls for red and the more complex calls for purple.  The old gold will replace the green.  Blue, yellow and white will remain the same (although I may swap yellow and white on the simpler design to avoid too much yellow on gold... or not, that will be determined in the testing phase).  A trip to the needlework store was next in order.  I pulled one each of the blue, red, gold and yellow DMC referenced by Master Wymarc as reference colors, then looked at the threads available.  From prior projects, I knew I want to use silk approximately the size of Perle 5.  I looked at both Grandeur by Rainbow Threads and Trebizond.  I finally chose the Trebizond - look at that sheen!  I will admit that I played a little with the colors to achieve a palate that I found pleasing. I was luck y enough to find a piece of Congress Cloth (my preferred ground for Brick Stitch) in eggshell in the remainders bin that should be *just about* the right size (class pieces will be cut with more precision).  Finally, a set of stretcher bars (a pair of 6" and a pair of 11" and a box of tack were added to my purchase.

Next up will be finalizing the specific pattern and testing the colors together.

Well, lookie there... Thursday.

Time for my weekly "keep me honest" report.

A little less on target this week, but still things got done.

Anyway, here's this week's status of projects in progress and "on deck" (why, yes, I have changed up the order a little bit)

Current project list/status (SCA/Historic):

• Project X for C&L -- the "Convent Stitch" piece.  Can't say much about it, but 'client'  approval has been received (on deadline) and materials selection should be done (on deadline) by the end of the weekend.  
• Couched cord piece for C&L -- research has been started.  I may have to reassess deadline on this (i.e. give myself another week).
• Applique piece for C&L -- research has been started (actually early for the timeline, but as long as it doesn't take away from other projects, I won't begrudge anything an early start. 
• Shirt for my husband:  Not only needed, but will also confirm my pattern for him *before* I cut into the black silk.  Discussed last Monday.  Significant work has been done.  I was going to have it be the subject of last night's "A&S night" but did not.  I expect there to be some studio time this weekend.
• Class for March.  I've just been asked to do a class at an embroidery event in March which will be a "more in-depth" than the usual SCA class.  Topic will be German Brick Stitch. Deadline is early January to have concept piece done and photos and write up to the coordinator.  My plan is to write most of the class while I make the concept piece so I can do my usual photos in progress method (without having to do the piece twice!)
• Motifs for coronation cloaks (different coronation) -- The embroidery on the two remaining tygers is on hold pending decisions by other people..
• Marshall Hanging -- the very large Bayeux inspired piece that I've been working on (on and  off) for just about forever.  Deadline, June some time summer 2016.  
• Hem stitched square -- Now 3 sides are done and the fourth one started.  I think this one has officially gone to "in stasis." 

• Other garb waiting in the wings... I have this lovely black silk for a tunic for my husband -- one which will have plenty of stitching on it.  Also in planning are a couple more coifs -- and shifts and shirts. Hope to have something ready for us both for an event in December. 

Current project list/status (Modern)

• Skirts for work.  One skirt that had been languishing in my studio has had some work done, and now just needs a hem (that's the one I pinned up). This hem is on my list for this weekend.  I also have some lovely blue and white fabric waiting to be the next skirt. Yes, you're right, no change here. 

• Bay of Fundy Scarf.  Proceeding well.  This is excellent travel work -- it fits nicely in a project bag and is easy to pull out during lunch.  The first ball of yarn just keeps going, but I think it will soon actually be finished. I'm pretty sure a second ball will be all this one needs -- meaning lots of the yarn left for something(s) else.  Progress pictures will be on a Tuesday coming soon.
• Gift knitting.  I don't take on a lot of knitting for gifts, especially with my usual policy of only having one knitting project in progress at a time, but I found some lovely yarn at Rhinebeck for a scarf for a friend for an EOYHOYC* gift so that will enter rotation.  Yarn has been wound (and a nice spot found in my studio for the swift and ball winder to live -- where they're instantly accessible, but not in the way of anything!).  I have changed my mind three or four times, and now I'm pretty sure I know exactly what project I'm going to do for this, so it should hit needles soon.
• Annual cross stitch.  A few years ago I started a project for the adopted daughter of friends -- I bought a lovely cross stitch chart that is made up of a number of motifs (similar to Quaker samplers).  There are just enough motifs for me to do a different one for an ornament each year for her until she reaches 21.  I even know where the chart and materials are, so that needs to get started soon. 
• Knitted Salto fingerless gloves from Craftsy kit using Manos del Uruguay Silk Blend.  This was also finished and worn at Rhinebeck. I've been loving them.  These were Tuesday's blog post, and on the DONE- Modern page.  They will be off this list next week.
• Studio project. Yes, the studio is in good shape, but I do still have that wall of desk and closets to finish organizing.  I did get the desk cleaned up and the new computer set up. The WiFi booster has also been set up, so I'm ready to work in there.  I've had a couple good sessions, and I expect more going forward.  Every time I do go in, I try to organize one more thing. 

Blog notes:

• Still working on a three day a week pattern -- Monday for SCA/Medieval/Renaissance related; Tuesday for post 1600 to modern related and Thursdays for status updates.
• I've begun building the "DONE" pages, and moved links around a bit.  The "main categories" are to the right now -- that's the main labels.  Click on one and see all the posts with that label.  Down below are *all* the labels I've used.  
• I'm also considering a couple other pages -- one for links to museums and other excellent web resources, and one for a bibliography (with appropriate links).  

So, that's it for my plans for the coming weeks.  

Research tool box -- Google Images

This week I started the research and design for one of the pieces I am doing as supporting items for my Expert panel.  Because it is a surprise item, I can't talk much about the specific item, so I thought I'd say a few things about research. Today I'll talk about using Google Images.

For the project in question, I was given certain parameters (the embroidered item must represent "X").  Let's say "X" is an acorn (it's not, but let's pretend... oh, I see how this is going to go, I'm going to wind up with *two* projects).

Next, I want to have the project have a look appropriate to the person's persona time and place.  Mine is 12th Century and since the acorn is part of my Household badge, we'll use 12th Century.  Next I went to Google Images and typed "12th Century acorn."  Lots of hits.  Most of them not actually on point.  Many items not actually 12th Century, many not actually showing an acorn, but a few good hits.  Many of those good hits are on Pinterest these days.  That's ok as long as you follow the links and get to actual content.  Pinterest is both a boon and a bane to researching.  I happened to find this link to a file on Wikicommons.  I'll be filing that away for future research, though it may be a bit busy for my current design thoughts.  It does purport to be 12th Century, though, and certainly depicts acorns, so it's worth remembering for more info.

For the actual project, I did find a Pinterest link to a manuscript from the correct century with an illustration of the element(s) desired, and I'm pretty happy with it.  I was having trouble getting more information -- several Pinterest boards linked to the same broken link so I wasn't finding the actual source of the item.  That's when I used Google Image search again.  Now, I use a Windows machine, and I'm afraid I don't know how to do this on anything running a different OS, but I"m sure there's a way:  I right clicked on the image and selected "Search Google for this Image."  Another way is to save the image to your computer then, in Google Images click on the camera icon to search by image and upload it,  Using this, I found a link to a digitized version of the book the image came from.  With this I had the documentation I was looking for to be able to cite the source of the image.

Searching on Google Images can be a powerful tool.  Sometimes it takes a few tries to get some useful images out of the search (try "Medieval" or "Renaissance" instead of the century, for instance), and even the good hits will take some more research to determine if the image is what you're looking for, but it's a good jumping off point.  Keep in mind that it is a *start* but far from a *finish* for good research and documentation.  Another problem, of course is the rabbit hole.  For instance in the example above -- created just for doing this post, I have found an image that just yells at me to have something done with, both embroidery and the brain space going "look at that hood."

Now, I'm off to look at some more possibly 12th century acorns... I do have a couple other supporting projects to design.

C&L - Couched Cord on Applique

One of the simplest uses of Laid and Couched work is to place a cord or decorative braid around the edges of appliqued work.  Sometimes the cord contrasts with the motifs, as in this late 15th to early 16th century fragment from Egypt and this earlier one, and sometimes the cord blends in with the ground fabric, making the applied motif stand out, as in this Spanish banner from the very end of SCA period.  Sometimes the couched cord is metal thread and in a few examples it is leather strips with gilt, such as in The Tristan hanging (Hanging) | V&A Search the Collections

This Cushion cover includes both metal couched metal thread and couched non-metal cord, as well as some couched cord used within the applied motifs, as can be seen in this close up.

One of the pieces I will be making for my Expert panel in Couching & Laid* work will be such a piece.  It doesn't need to be a large piece, it's one of the "backup" pieces which will, together, show my ability in all aspects of C&L.

I plan to do a cushion cover, though not a long one.  I will make a cushion to fit one of the chairs my husband and I typically take to SCA events which will make it more comfortable (yes, I will be sitting on it, presumably my stitches will be good enough that it will handle it).  I am considering either straight up my arms, or a design of an oak tree with one or more squirrels under it, possibly holding needles as in my arms. I'm kind of leaning towards a nice stylized oak tree with a squirrel.

Since this project is for me and not a surprise, it is one I can discuss the process of on this blog, so there will be updates as I work.

And that's it for this week's Monday post.  Have a great week everyone. Tomorrow I get to show off some of my modern knitting that has been recently completed.


*Couching & Laid work is the category title in Athena's Thimble.

Linen on Linen

I will be participating next weekend in a demo at the German Society of Philadelphia.  I was particularly requested to talk to participants about German embroidery.  I'm putting together a little bit of a slide show of some of my favorite pieces from the area now known as Germany, as well as little kits for a brick stitch square for those so inclined.  German embroidery includes much more than the brick stitch pieces, though.  I'm working to include some of the different styles in my slide show.

One of those styles is the linen on line, or white work known as Opus Teutonicum. It is primarily from the 13th and 14th centuries, such as this altar cloth at the Cleveland Museum of Art (1948.352) is all white linen thread on white linen and has been dated to circa 1350.  On my first trip to the Cleveland it was hanging in a hallway.  I got some photos, but it was still in the days of film cameras and I will need to hunt down the actual physical prints.  This altar cloth is plates 154-157 in Schuette* lists four stitches.

Another one of the pieces that will be in my slide show is this hanging in the V&A, Museum number T.126-1931

This piece is dated 1587 so is quite late in SCA "Period."  It uses a larger variety of stitches (7 by the museum's count) and is worked in both brown and white linen threads on linen.

As so often happens, researching or assembling one thing leads me down another path. As I grow in my enjoyment of free embroidery stitches (when I started I was primarily a counted embroidery person -- now I'm about 50/50), I contemplate that something based on the Teutonicum will be in my future. 

But for now, back to pieces already in rotation, and planning a talk.

*Schuette refers to A Pictorial History of Embroidery, (Schuette, Marie and Muller-Christensen, Sigrid, King, Donald, Trans. Frederick A. Praeger, 1964)

Icelandic Laid and Couched work

As part of my approach to an Expert panel in Laid and Couched work, I am looking into the Icelandic style, known as refilsaumur.  It is a surface couching very similar to Bayeux work, with the difference that the background is also worked.

The article, Traditional Icelandic Embroidery by Elsa E. Gudjonsson is my primary source for information on this work.  It appeared in Reykajavic Icelandic Review in 1982 and is available on line at Scribd.  The article was expanded into a book  which, while it has a listing on Amazon, is out of stock and rarely available -- I'll be seeking to borrow a copy through Inter Library Loan.

Photo from Amazon.com

My plan is to do a motif based on those seen on this altar frontal. While this was a religious piece, I will probably use a secular theme. 

Photo from http://medieval.webcon.net.au/loc_scandinavia_iceland.html

A clearer look at the work would help, there will be some research done soon.  

Sorry for the short post today -- I've been head down into some projects which will be the subject of October posts, after the projects have been seen.