And back for a status report

Prepping for a party (which was then cancelled) and digging out too entirely too much of my time ... but here I am back with a status report.  Regular Monday and Tuesday posts should resume next week.

Current project list/status (SCA/Historic):

• Project X for C&L -- the "Convent Stitch" piece.  Outlines are done and the figures have been filled in on one of the two motifs.  On the background now.  The client has seen and likes the piece. Moving nice and quickly.  
• Couched cord piece for C&L -- Nothing new.
• Applique piece for C&L -- Nothing new.
• Class for February and March.  I've done a bit more of the sample stitching for this class on German Brick Stitch.   Here is more info about the March event for those who might be interested -- at that event it will be an intensive class.  However, I'm also teaching it twice in February as a smaller class, at this event and this event.  Picking up materials this weekend for the two shorter February classes.
• Marshall Hanging -- No, nothing new.    
• Hem stitched square -- This is officially my current "work on at events" project.  
• That silk tunic I did for my husband -- still need to pull that out and get the seam finishing done, and maybe plan some more embroidery for it. 

• Other garb waiting in the wings... Also in planning are a couple more coifs -- and shifts and shirts.  
• Motifs for coronation cloaks (different coronation) -- I am officially taking this off the list. 

Current project list/status (Modern)

• Bay of Fundy Scarf.  The slightly over half done scarf is patiently waiting for its time to return.  Gift knitting is done and this may get to return to rotation soon, though I'm pretty embroidery-focused right now.
• Clothing for work.  Guess what, that hem still hasn't been done.  On the other hand, I've found a website with some patterns that have me kind of excited.  Mostly they take zippers.  Here's the thing, I have never been happy with my zipper work.  However.... 
• Zipper class.  In March I'm going to be taking a class just on zippers!
• Studio project. A number of things have migrated back to the studio (where, admittedly, they belong), and a few things in the studio need to come out.  I need to determine a day each month for specifically concentrating on getting everything back to where it belongs, which should help keep this room organized. This has not happened in January, though I may be able to carve some time out this weekend.

Blog notes:

• Still working on a three day a week pattern -- Monday for SCA/Medieval/Renaissance related; Tuesday for post 1600 to modern related and Thursdays for status updates.
• I've continued work on the "DONE" pages and will try to maintain them a little better.  
• I'm also considering a couple other pages -- one for links to museums and other excellent web resources, and one for a bibliography (with appropriate links).  Any requests? 

So, that's it for my plans for the coming weeks.  

Tool talk -- and "cross shopping"

Do you "cross shop?"  That's the phrase my husband and I use for buying items in a store aimed at one hobby or occupation to use in another.

(Please note, none of my comments are meant as specific endorsements, or anti-endorsements of any one retailer.  In fact, every retailer listed is one I regularly shop from, for something...)

Sometimes, cross shopping is just less expensive. For example, several yarn suppliers sell the foam "puzzle pieces" to use for blocking mats. For example KnitPicks* has a set of nine 12 inch mats, currently selling for $24.99.  All put together, that's 36x36 inches of blocking. On the other hand, Harbor Freight sells a set of four 24 inch anti-fatigue foam mats, which are the same material, for $17.99 (often on sale for $9.99). All put together, that's 50x50.  I have the Harbor Freight mats.  I do put a towel down between the mat and my work, but at 50x50 I've been able to block even my larger shawl.

Boxes good for sorting little bits of things are often less expensive in the sporting goods department (think fishing tackle) than in the crafts department -- for essentially the same boxes.  (This used to be more true, apparently the retailers are catching on to this).

Canning jars, which are very popular (or being pushed anyway) in the crafts stores are less expensive when purchased by the dozen at the grocery, hardware, or big box stores than when purchased by the piece at the craft stores.

And sometimes, cross shopping just finds you the best tools.  Like magnets.  One of the most important tools I have in my studio is this long reach magnetic pick up purchased at Harbor Freight.  It is a very strong magnet and has a "quick release" for removing the items picked up.  Granted, it doesn't pick up everything that might get dropped in the studio, but pins, scissors, and other tools are easy to retrieve.

I have a small telescoping one on my desk downstairs, too. 


Wherever I go, I keep my eyes and mind open as I look at products, as other uses may come to mind -- a kitchen twine holder easily becomes a thread ball holder, for instance.  The little jars for beads that screw together in a stack could easily hold small hardware bits, or the seasonings needed for a given dish.

Our greatest cross shopping find, however, was certainly the old library card catalog, which has become the sorter and holder of "little things I want to be able to find"... pens, pencils, batteries, the cats' grooming supplies, wire....

So, always keep your eyes open -- you never know when you'll find just the right tool for something, even if it isn't the original purpose.

Another museum piece.

Well, once again, I'm between being able to show you new work of mine.  So, today I'll show you one of the pieces that was in the recent exhibit at the Met.  This cloth totally blew me away on so many levels.  It is Accession Number 51.147, Cover Containing Animals and Floral Ornaments.   A beautiful linen piece, it is embroidered net (Lacis), cutwork and needle lace.

The lacis is incredibly fine.  I couldn't get the exact gauge, but it is easily 15 holes to the inch or more. In this shot you can also see some of the cutwork and some of the needle lace.


This happy dragon has some little friends -- any surprise I focused on the squirrels for a photo?




Some of the squares showed more wear than others, and there were a couple of places that showed probable repair, but overall the piece is beautifully preserved.

Here is a square of the needle lace, and a couple of the cutwork.  The lacis panels are larger squares, with these smaller squares making up borders.









It's a large piece, and was displayed in a manner which made it really easy to study.  It is so large, it took three photos to get the whole thing. There is a lot of material here for inspiration.

Even when I have a lengthy list of on decks projects I love taking time to look through photos, and search museum collections websites.  There is a creative energy trapped within those threads that flows and renews my energy, even for applying to completely different projects.  An hour with these images and I am usually revved up to get back to my needle and thread. 

Keeping honest

It is Thursday again, so time to "keep honest." So here's this week's status of projects in progress and "on deck."  

Current project list/status (SCA/Historic):

• Project X for C&L -- the "Convent Stitch" piece.  Design has been transferred -- love my new light pad, by the way -- and embroidery begun.  Very glad this one is going to go fast. 
• Couched cord piece for C&L -- The planned project seems to have stalled, so I'll be looking for a new piece for this element of the overall presentation.  On the other hand, a friend was in England and got photos of a piece that I will probably refer to....
• Applique piece for C&L -- Did a little preliminary research, but have otherwise put this aside for other things -- as permitted by its place in my current project timeline. Time to begin the ramp up of this. 
• Class for February and March.  I've done a bit more of the sample stitching for this class on German Brick Stitch.   Here is more info about the March event for those who might be interested -- at that event it will be an intensive class.  However, I'm also teaching it twice in February as a smaller class, at this event and this event.
• Marshall Hanging -- the very large Bayeux inspired piece that I've been working on (on and  off) for just about forever.  Deadline, June some time summer 2016.  
• Hem stitched square -- Now 3 sides are done and the fourth one started.  I think this one has officially gone to "in stasis," though I did do some on Saturday at the event.  There's about 1/2 of the last side to do. 
• That silk tunic I did for my husband -- still need to pull that out and get the seam finishing done, and maybe plan some more embroidery for it. 

• Other garb waiting in the wings... Also in planning are a couple more coifs -- and shifts and shirts.  
• Motifs for coronation cloaks (different coronation) -- The embroidery on the two remaining tygers is on hold pending decisions by other people..

Current project list/status (Modern)

• Bay of Fundy Scarf.  The slightly over half done scarf is patiently waiting for its time to return.  Gift knitting is done and this may get to return to rotation soon, though I'm pretty embroidery-focused right now.
• Skirts for work.  One skirt that had been languishing in my studio has had some work done, and now just needs a hem (that's the one I pinned up). This hem is on my list for this weekend.  I also have some lovely blue and white fabric waiting to be the next skirt. Yes, you're right, no change here. (Really, what is so hard about getting around to sewing up the hem, which is the *last thing* on the black and white one). 
• Studio project. A number of things have migrated back to the studio (where, admittedly, they belong), and a few things in the studio need to come out.  I need to determine a day each month for specifically concentrating on getting everything back to where it belongs, which should help keep this room organized. 

Blog notes:

• Still working on a three day a week pattern -- Monday for SCA/Medieval/Renaissance related; Tuesday for post 1600 to modern related and Thursdays for status updates.
• I've continued work on the "DONE" pages and will try to maintain them a little better.  
• I'm also considering a couple other pages -- one for links to museums and other excellent web resources, and one for a bibliography (with appropriate links).  Any requests? 

So, that's it for my plans for the coming weeks.  

Conner Prarie

 I think I've mentioned before that I'm a sucker for the historical interpretive sites. Many people know of Plymouth Plantation and Old Sturbridge Village, I'm sure, but there are many others.  Some day I'd love to just travel around the country visiting such sites. I'll have to start a list -- have any you'd recommend?

Several years ago my husband and I took a  nice long vacation, including visiting with friends and family in Tennessee, Kentucky and Indiana.  In Indiana one of the places we went was Conner Prairie.  With several areas of focus, there's lots to see.  There's the 1836 Prairietown, a Lenape Indian Camp, a Balloon ride, and apparently a Civil War centered area (don't remember that -- we either missed it or it is new since we were there).  

Of course, there is fiber related goodness.  

They have sheep of course

And examples of fiber works.  Here are photos of a tape loom.

 There's a large loom.  When we were there, it was being used, so we got to watch.

A bit of weaving done on a previous day.

 The same building that housed the large loom also had this walking wheel, displayed with some spun and dyed yarns, as well as material for spinning.

 

They grow dye stuffs as well:

In one of the homes, they have a display of needlework in progress

Clearly at the time, not all goods were from their own land.

This has beautiful fabric hangings and blanket which would have been brought in.

Another process post.

When last we left the process of creating my German Brick Stitch class (here) I had selected materials and was about to settle on design.

Stage 3 Design confirmation

I knew that I want to jump from some of Master Richard Wymark's patterns.  They are clear and concise, and he had the advantage of being able to study the original pieces extensively.   After a little fiddling around, I stayed with my original plan to bounce from the item identified as part of a stole or mantle.  This is a nice easy pattern, all the stitches are the same four count. This will be the first part stitched in the final project and the one covered in the class. I have strayed from my original plan for the second design, moving to a different embroidered bag design.  It is similar to the one I was originally going to use.  It is a more complex design, requiring a little more attention to counting as the stitches vary in length from two to six count. 

For the class both designs will use the same colors: dark red, dark gold, yellow, blue (all silk) and white (linen).  

Stage 4 Stitch testing

Finally, it was time to test everything.  Normally for testing for a project, I just do a small bit of stitching including all colors on a "scrap" piece of fabric.  In this case, however, "stitch testing" was actually "kit testing" -- make sure the information will translate, confirm how much thread will be needed, consider shots to take for the handout.

I started by assembling my frame and marking the stitch area.  The piece will be stitched on a rectangle -- half in one design and half in the other.  When removed from the frame it will be folded in half and sewing up on the sides to make a bag.  I am not including photos of how I marked out the stitch area -- because it is not the way it will be done for class.  Not that I don't want to show I can mess up too, but because I don't want to confuse people.

Finally, I began to stitch.

Here is the main motif done in colors selected.  To make the project a little easier, I am dropping the animal motifs and simply doing an alternation of the motif as shown and the motif done with white linen thread and filled with the dark gold.  All motifs will have the blue "spots."

The reasoning behind the revision relates mostly to streamlining the design for learning -- and for reduction in the number of colors needed.

I completed the first half and quickly determined that the Trebizond silk I bought will not be the recommended thread for this as a learning project.  This photo shows one of the reasons.  Trebizond is picky.  It twists up, coverage is inconsistent from color to color and to have enough to finish the project it will be *expensive*. The kits will not be inexpensive, but the Trebizond was going to make it very much so.

Of course, I'll finish my first bag with the Trebizond, but the second one will be done with Splendor -- one of the recommended threads.  yes, there will be a second one, I still have to do photos for the handout.

 Progress shot. Once I had the first motif in place, I placed the rest of the lattice, first in the red, then the gold.  All those diamonds will be filled in once the center motifs are placed.

 Here all the motifs have been completed, ready to fill.

And finally, the full piece -- or the one half.

Ultimately, I did a larger area than we will do for the class.  This gave me a solid 'feel' for the design and plenty of opportunities to determine recommended stitch and working order.





I'm working on the second side now, the lattice is in place and the center motifs have been started.   Then, I just need to write up the handout (while doing a second, smaller piece).

New Year, New Thursday

Well, a fair amount got done while A Study in Textiles was off for the holidays.  Two gifts were completed, and the (first) sample for my March class is well in hand.

So here's this week's status of projects in progress and "on deck."  

Current project list/status (SCA/Historic):

• Project X for C&L -- the "Convent Stitch" piece.  This project will be transferred and stitching started this weekend.  It will go quickly and I'm looking forward to some free embroidery work after a couple weeks of counted work.  (And on that, a number of people are asking who is this, and what did I do with the real Kandy... but I really have become as much a fan of free as of counted embroidery.)
• Couched cord piece for C&L -- The planned project seems to have stalled, so I'll be looking for a new piece for this element of the overall presentation.  On the other hand, a friend was in England and got photos of a piece that I will probably refer to....
• Applique piece for C&L -- Did a little preliminary research, but have otherwise put this aside for other things -- as permitted by its place in my current project timeline. Time to begin the ramp up of this. 
• Class for March.  I've just been asked to do a class at an embroidery event in March which will be a "more in-depth" than the usual SCA class.  Topic will be German Brick Stitch. The write up has been sent to the coordinator and enough of the first sample done to take pictures for that.  Ultimately there will be a second sample because I need to do one more slowly, with photos for the instruction handout.  Enjoying this project a lot. 
• Motifs for coronation cloaks (different coronation) -- The embroidery on the two remaining tygers is on hold pending decisions by other people..
• Marshall Hanging -- the very large Bayeux inspired piece that I've been working on (on and  off) for just about forever.  Deadline, June some time summer 2016.  
• Hem stitched square -- Now 3 sides are done and the fourth one started.  I think this one has officially gone to "in stasis," though I did do some on Saturday at the event.  There's about 1/2 of the last side to do. 
• That silk tunic I did for my husband -- still need to pull that out and get the seam finishing done, and maybe plan some more embroidery for it. 

• Other garb waiting in the wings... Also in planning are a couple more coifs -- and shifts and shirts.  

Current project list/status (Modern)

• Bay of Fundy Scarf.  The slightly over half done scarf is patiently waiting for its time to return.  Gift knitting is done and this may get to return to rotation soon, though I'm pretty embroidery-focused right now.
• Gift knitting.  The scarf was a great hit.  I'm blessed to have a boss that really appreciates what is put into a hand made gift. 
• Annual cross stitch. The ornament has been sent out -- though the post office seems to be lagging on delivery.  This and the scarf were the subject of last Tuesday's post, and will be added to the "Done - Modern" page soon -- probably over the weekend, when I have more time to devote to blog maintenance. 
• Skirts for work.  One skirt that had been languishing in my studio has had some work done, and now just needs a hem (that's the one I pinned up). This hem is on my list for this weekend.  I also have some lovely blue and white fabric waiting to be the next skirt. Yes, you're right, no change here. (Really, what is so hard about getting around to sewing up the hem, which is the *last thing* on the black and white one). 
• Studio project. A number of things have migrated back to the studio (where, admittedly, they belong), and a few things in the studio need to come out.  I need to determine a day each month for specifically concentrating on getting everything back to where it belongs, which should help keep this room organized. 

Blog notes:

• Still working on a three day a week pattern -- Monday for SCA/Medieval/Renaissance related; Tuesday for post 1600 to modern related and Thursdays for status updates.
• I've continued work on the "DONE" pages and will try to maintain them a little better.  
• I'm also considering a couple other pages -- one for links to museums and other excellent web resources, and one for a bibliography (with appropriate links).  Any requests? 

So, that's it for my plans for the coming weeks.  

Holiday crafting revealed

My main two non-historically based projects in December were holiday gifts.

First, a scarf for one of my bosses.  Using yarn I bought at Rhinebeck and the pattern "Learn to Knit a Spiral Scarf" on Ravelry. It was a pretty quick knit, and I no longer have fear of short rows.

 I love how the curls can be tight....

 Or, really loose.

And, so easy to pack up, all opened out and wound into a disk 

The second holiday crafting was an ornament.  Very close friends adopted a baby a few years ago -- now she is a lovely young girl.  The year she came home, I purchased a Christmas chart based on Quaker embroidery motifs.  It has enough motifs for me to do one ornament each year until she is 21.   Here is this year's ornament.

 Each year's ornament includes the year and an acorn.  This year all on the same side.

The ground is linen and the thread is silk.

 This is the first year with a plain back.

I did a blanket stitch with just two strands of very fine silk around the edge. 

Now, it is back to my Bay of Fundy scarf for my modern work, though most focus will be on "period" embroideries for some time going forward now. 

Welcome back and happy new year

The end of year holidays are over, and A Study in Textiles is back.  It's Monday, so time for some historic embroidery talk.

Over the holidays I was able to go to the Met to see the exhibit "Fashion and Virtue" which focuses on embroidery design books, mostly from the late 16th Century (with a couple things earlier and a few things later).  The exhibit continues through January 10 -- and if you've been thinking about it, and still have the chance, I would say GO.

Fortunately, photos are permitted (of all but one item).  I will also say that the Met knows how to put on an exhibit of textiles.  Pieces are displayed in such a way as to be able to get pretty close to the items, to really *see* them.

I have a full album of my photos (and a few other things I photographed that day) on Flickr (feel free to grab my photos, but please give full credits, both to the object owners and to me).  For most items, the label follows the photo(s).

But, I really want to share a couple of things.

For instance, there is this lovely photo, showing the pricking holes used to transfer this embroidery cartoon to fabric:

That's the kind of detail in an exhibit I love to see.  Not only does it cover "oh, look, here are beautiful things" but also "here are things that are beautiful and were used and here is how they were used."

Of course, the focus of the exhibit was the embroidery books or "modelbuchs."

There were a lot of them.  Certainly more than I have ever seen in one place (eve in reprints).

One of the things that was clear is that the printers of these books "borrowed" liberally from each other.

For example, here is a page displayed as being from one book (Christian Egenolff, Modelbuch aller Art Nehens vn[d] Stickens 1`535 -- and yet, I know that some of the designs on this page appear in at least one other book.

There were a number of motifs and designs that appeared in several places throughout the exhibit.

The exhibit was vast, and the photos will provide much for me to talk about in future posts (For instance, I will want to devote a post just to the embroidered net....oh, yes).  I spent over two hours and took over 350 photos -- and there was a lot that I did not photograph.  It was a wonderfully constructed exhibit, and I only wish I had gone earlier in its run, so that I could have gone again.