Schuette

Since I mentioned it yesterday, I thought I'd talk a bit about Schuette -- more accurately, A Pictorial History of Embroidery by Marie Schuette and Sigrid Muller-Christensen.

The photo on the cover is actually the back of a piece

Originally published in German in 1963, the copy I have was published in English in the US in 1964.


There are 464 black and white plates and 29 color plates of embroidery spanning from the 5th Century B.C. to the 29th Century.  It opens with two short articles - 6 pages of materials and techniques (with some excellent stitch diagrams) and just over 11 pages of Historical Introduction.  After the plates there is a catalog which provides a short write up about the piece.

The photos are pretty good.  There are both overall photos and detail. It is true that better photos are available now -- photography resolution has come a long way in over 50 years -- but in most of them good detail can be seen.

Detail shots of the linen altar cloth discussed yesterday

My favorite use of Schuette is as a jumping off point.  If I'm looking for inspiration for a new piece, I will pull it out and just leaf through.  Once I find a piece that sparks my interest, I check the catalog for information and look to see what more detailed information may be available.

Unfortunately, Schuette has been out of print for a very long time, and it is not an inexpensive book.  Some libraries have it (usually non-circulating) and many embroiderers have it. If you have an opportunity to peruse this book, do so.  If you're going to be seeing me, for instance, let me know you'd like to look at mine and I'll bring it along.

Are there better, newer embroidery books out there?  Maybe.  There are certainly ones with better photos of some of the items.  There are newer resources with information not included in Schuette.  There are whole books written covering just a handful of the items shown, or a short period.  Still, it is Schuette that I turn to when considering a new project; it is Schuette that I turn to when I need images to show to a class, and it is Schuette that I pull from my shelves when I just want to revel in the glory of over 20 centuries of thread art.

Linen on Linen

I will be participating next weekend in a demo at the German Society of Philadelphia.  I was particularly requested to talk to participants about German embroidery.  I'm putting together a little bit of a slide show of some of my favorite pieces from the area now known as Germany, as well as little kits for a brick stitch square for those so inclined.  German embroidery includes much more than the brick stitch pieces, though.  I'm working to include some of the different styles in my slide show.

One of those styles is the linen on line, or white work known as Opus Teutonicum. It is primarily from the 13th and 14th centuries, such as this altar cloth at the Cleveland Museum of Art (1948.352) is all white linen thread on white linen and has been dated to circa 1350.  On my first trip to the Cleveland it was hanging in a hallway.  I got some photos, but it was still in the days of film cameras and I will need to hunt down the actual physical prints.  This altar cloth is plates 154-157 in Schuette* lists four stitches.

Another one of the pieces that will be in my slide show is this hanging in the V&A, Museum number T.126-1931

This piece is dated 1587 so is quite late in SCA "Period."  It uses a larger variety of stitches (7 by the museum's count) and is worked in both brown and white linen threads on linen.

As so often happens, researching or assembling one thing leads me down another path. As I grow in my enjoyment of free embroidery stitches (when I started I was primarily a counted embroidery person -- now I'm about 50/50), I contemplate that something based on the Teutonicum will be in my future. 

But for now, back to pieces already in rotation, and planning a talk.

*Schuette refers to A Pictorial History of Embroidery, (Schuette, Marie and Muller-Christensen, Sigrid, King, Donald, Trans. Frederick A. Praeger, 1964)

Thu....er Friday update

Sorry for the late post, I was stitching most of the day yesterday and kind of forgot it was Thursday. There was no A&S gathering on Wednesday, but there was plenty of stitching.  Then, facing this tight deadline I took yesterday off and worked more on stitching.  By the end of next week, for good or ill, I will not be on such a crazed schedule.

Not much change in my ...

Current project list/status (SCA/Historic):

• Medallion for a coronation mantle -- Soon, soon I will be able to unleash the post about this.
• Motifs for coronation cloaks (different coronation) -- First one is done, second one is almost done.  I've made some compromises, but I think not ones in quality of work.  The big question is whether I can get two more done by deadline... yes, there is a contingency if not. 
• Planning for teaching.  Also in October (boy, October's a big month for my work), I'll be teaching German Brick Stitch at a demo. Kits were not assembled yet -- but by Sunday I'll need some down from stitching time and will do it then.

• Marshall Hanging -- the very large Bayeux inspired piece that I've been working on (on and off) for just about forever.  Deadline, June 2016. I expect there will be an update post shortly. No additional work this week.

• Hem stitched square -- Now 3 sides are done.  Currently my travel piece.  With no deadline, and just for me just for fun, I'm ok with slow progress on this one.

• Additional couching & laid work pieces. The June 2016 deadline is for a very special presentation to the East Kingdom embroidery guild, Keepers of Athena's Thimble.  In addition to the master work of the Marshall Hanging, I need supporting pieces in other forms of laid and couched work.  There will be posts as these are done. Some research and Pinteresting have been done.  The proposal I sent out involves this project as well as the requested item.  Two birds and all that.

Current project list/status (Modern): (oh, look, no progress here.... working on a deadline will do that).

• Knitted Salto fingerless gloves from Craftsy kit using Manos del Uruguay Silk Blend.  I'm so close to done on this one.  It was a lovely kit, which unfortunately didn't have enough of the yarn.  I got another skein and have to wind it off and finish. 

• Knitted vest for Joe.  Knitting is done.  Just have to do blocking, weave in the ends and sew on the buttons.  

• Skirts for work.  One skirt that had been languishing in my studio has had some work done, and now just needs a hem.  I also have some lovely blue and white fabric waiting to be the next skirt. 

• Alpaca stole.  Beautiful yellow alpaca yarn purchased at Rhinebeck last year has been wound.  This is my next knitting project, and should be cast on in time to be what I'm working on at this year's Rhinebeck. I'm going to be using a pattern found on Ravelry, the Bay of Fundy Scarf. I think it will be lovely in the yellow. I'm pretty sure this will be my reward for finishing the current deadline item.  

Off to pack the car.  

Some work from the past....

The post about the daisies reminded me of a pair of bugs that I embroidered for another friend's Laurel coat.

The fabric was received with bugs drawn on and thread to get started.  I stitched outside the diamond (which would ultimately be the fold/stitch line for placing them on the coat) to anchor the ground fabric to the backing/stabilizing fabric, then began stitching.

I used a variety of stitches - stem, split and reverse chain for the body and the outlines of the wings, and some needle lace for the wings. I wanted the bodies to have plenty of texture, so used different stitches and different directions.

Very short post today, because I am still madly stitching away at a project for a *very* close deadline.  It will be worth it, though, and the post after the first weekend in October should have plenty to say as a result. There may not be a post tomorrow, between that same frantic stitching and an errand to run. 

Have a thready week!

Thursday Update 9/17/15

Last night was A&S Night, and it is now time for my weekly project update.  But, first, time to brag on my student, who has taken to embroidery well.  She added some herringbone to her new hood:

I know she plans to continue it along the top seam as well.  The hood will be lined, and then she plans some more embroidery along the edges.  

Together with those things else that I did in the last week, here is my ...

Current project list/status (SCA/Historic):

• Medallion for a coronation mantle -- confirmation received that it arrived at its destination and it is liked.
• Motifs for coronation cloaks (different coronation) -- Complete turn around -- not going to be applique, but embroidered and then the motifs will be appliqued to the cloaks (because the wool did not arrive in time for proper completion.  The first of four is almost done -- and I know from previous experience that the next three will go faster. 
• Planning for teaching.  Also in October (boy, October's a big month for my work), I'll be teaching German Brick Stitch at a demo.  I need to assemble kits and maybe frame up a piece to be working on.  This will be addressed this weekend.

• Marshall Hanging -- the very large Bayeux inspired piece that I've been working on (on and off) for just about forever.  Deadline, June 2016. I expect there will be an update post shortly. No additional work this week.

• Hem stitched square -- Now 3 sides are done.  Currently my travel piece.  With no deadline, and just for me just for fun, I'm ok with slow progress on this one.

• Additional couching & laid work pieces. The June 2016 deadline is for a very special presentation to the East Kingdom embroidery guild, Keepers of Athena's Thimble.  In addition to the master work of the Marshall Hanging, I need supporting pieces in other forms of laid and couched work.  There will be posts as these are done. Some research and Pinteresting have been done.  The proposal I sent out involves this project as well as the requested item.  Two birds and all that.

Current project list/status (Modern): (oh, look, no progress here.... working on a deadline will do that).

• Knitted Salto fingerless gloves from Craftsy kit using Manos del Uruguay Silk Blend.  I'm so close to done on this one.  It was a lovely kit, which unfortunately didn't have enough of the yarn.  I got another skein and have to wind it off and finish. 

• Knitted vest for Joe.  Knitting is done.  Just have to do blocking, weave in the ends and sew on the buttons.  

• Skirts for work.  One skirt that had been languishing in my studio has had some work done, and now just needs a hem.  I also have some lovely blue and white fabric waiting to be the next skirt. 

• Alpaca stole.  Beautiful yellow alpaca yarn purchased at Rhinebeck last year has been wound.  This is my next knitting project, and should be cast on in time to be what I'm working on at this year's Rhinebeck. I'm going to be using a pattern found on Ravelry, the Bay of Fundy Scarf. I think it will be lovely in the yellow. 

Sheep and Wool approaches...

It's time to be planning my annual trip to the New York Sheep & Wool Festival in Rhinebeck, NY -- mostly known to knitters, weavers, spinners and fiber fanatics everywhere as "Rhinebeck" and to our little circle as "Sheepsies."

This will be .. hm, lost count, I think my 5th year and even though I won't be shopping for anything, don't need anything and have little spare money to spend on anything, I'm very excited.

Because it is inspiring. This will actually be my second fiber festival this year, as I was able to go to the Maryland Sheep & Wool in the spring (that is the source of my photos).

There will, of course, be animals -- sheep, goats, llamas, alpacas ... and dogs

Happy sheep

Little babies

Such a face

There will also be fiber to peruse, many stands selling yarns of many colors

And others selling finished goods

I always return home with creative juices charged up. 

If you do anything with fiber, I encourage going to a fiber festival -- even if you never buy anything, you find that there is a aura of creative energy.

Icelandic Laid and Couched work

As part of my approach to an Expert panel in Laid and Couched work, I am looking into the Icelandic style, known as refilsaumur.  It is a surface couching very similar to Bayeux work, with the difference that the background is also worked.

The article, Traditional Icelandic Embroidery by Elsa E. Gudjonsson is my primary source for information on this work.  It appeared in Reykajavic Icelandic Review in 1982 and is available on line at Scribd.  The article was expanded into a book  which, while it has a listing on Amazon, is out of stock and rarely available -- I'll be seeking to borrow a copy through Inter Library Loan.

Photo from Amazon.com

My plan is to do a motif based on those seen on this altar frontal. While this was a religious piece, I will probably use a secular theme. 

Photo from http://medieval.webcon.net.au/loc_scandinavia_iceland.html

A clearer look at the work would help, there will be some research done soon.  

Sorry for the short post today -- I've been head down into some projects which will be the subject of October posts, after the projects have been seen.

Thursday report

Still recovering from a long weekend, we cancelled "A&S Night" last night, which is not to say that no A&S happened.  I did spend a little time working on cutting out pattern pieces for the applique I hope to be starting very very soon (just pending fabric).

I also did a little research and put forth a proposal with respect to a request I received.  

Together with those things else that I did in the last week, here is my ...

Current project list/status (SCA/Historic):

• Medallion for a coronation mantle -- THIS IS DONE and will be the subject of an October post (after reveal).  I am overall happy with this piece.  I was tracking time -- just under 40 hours.

• Motifs for a Laurel cloak -- This was the subject of last Monday's post.

• Motifs for coronation cloaks (different coronation) -- Sizes have been determined, fabric chosen and ordered and pattern pieces have begun to be cut out. This will be applique, as the best way to get four rather large motifs done in time -- and since they can be assembled without the final cloaks in hand, then applied at the end.
• Planning for teaching.  Also in October (boy, October's a big month for my work), I'll be teaching German Brick Stitch at a demo.  I need to assemble kits and maybe frame up a piece to be working on.  This will be addressed this weekend.

• Marshall Hanging -- the very large Bayeux inspired piece that I've been working on (on and off) for just about forever.  Deadline, June 2016. I expect there will be an update post shortly. No additional work this week.

• Hem stitched square -- Now 3 sides are done.  Currently my travel piece.  With no deadline, and just for me just for fun, I'm ok with slow progress on this one.

• Additional couching & laid work pieces. The June 2016 deadline is for a very special presentation to the East Kingdom embroidery guild, Keepers of Athena's Thimble.  In addition to the master work of the Marshall Hanging, I need supporting pieces in other forms of laid and couched work.  There will be posts as these are done. Some research and Pinteresting have been done.  The proposal I sent out involves this project as well as the requested item.  Two birds and all that.

Current project list/status (Modern):

• Knitted Salto fingerless gloves from Craftsy kit using Manos del Uruguay Silk Blend.  I'm so close to done on this one.  It was a lovely kit, which unfortunately didn't have enough of the yarn.  I got another skein and have to wind it off and finish. 

• Knitted vest for Joe.  Knitting is done.  Just have to do blocking, weave in the ends and sew on the buttons.  

• Skirts for work.  One skirt that had been languishing in my studio has had some work done, and now just needs a hem.  I also have some lovely blue and white fabric waiting to be the next skirt. 

• Alpaca stole.  Beautiful yellow alpaca yarn purchased at Rhinebeck last year has been wound.  This is my next knitting project, and should be cast on in time to be what I'm working on at this year's Rhinebeck. I'm going to be using a pattern found on Ravelry, the Bay of Fundy Scarf. I think it will be lovely in the yellow. 

And that's it for this week. 

The best plans, and some scissor talk....

Today was meant to be a "studio day" and it probably would have been such all day if I hadn't given in to my craving for Indian food.  (At my old job I was able to get fantastic Indian food regularly, but at the new place, the closest Indian place is just far enough away to not be convenient for lunch.)  I did spend a good morning straitening up (I intend to keep it a workable room, and it had accumulated a goodly amount of stuff that had been living in the front living room), and finishing the side seams and elastic casing on a skirt I started way too long ago.  Perhaps I'll do the hem on that skirt next.   Then it was time for lunch, and somehow when we got back I didn't wander back upstairs. Still it was a lovely few hours and it did start up the "I want to make things" in my soul again.   Oh, and lunch was lovely.

While I was in my studio it occurred to me that I have scissors hanging on three of the four walls.

There are the fabric shears (as always, where I use web based retailers' links/photos it is for convenience, not as a specific endorsement):

I have at least two of the gray handled Fiskars, plus one pair with the razor edge:

Photo from Amazon.  Also available on JoAnn's website and in stores.
 Interestingly, I could not find the gray handles on Fiskars' website

I also have a pair of Fiskars Pinking shears and a number of pairs of small embroidery scissors around, as well as several pair of scissors that are "paper safe." Essentially in our house any 8" scissors that are the plastic handles but not Fiskars are paper safe. Yes, my husband is well versed in "honey are these ok for not-fabric?") Wherever I turn in my studio, I can easily lay my hands on a pair of scissors when I need them. 

There are a number of pair of embroidery scissors around the house as well. 

Pretty blue handled scissors

I have scissors for pretty -- because working with pretty tools makes me happy -- and scissors for getting under threads (these are great for Hardanger and other cut/withdrawn thread embroidery).

That slanted blade gets under threads nicely.

I also have a pair of scissors specially designed for metal thread -- one blade is serrated, so it holds the thread in place.

Metal thread scissors
Photo from
www.Firesidestitchery.com

There are also, of course, the usual complement of plain small embroidery scissors and 'stork' scissors -- and even a pair where instead of a stork the animal is a squirrel.  

So, of course yesterday, I had to go out and buy a pair of scissors.  But, this time it was for paper.  While there are plenty of "paper safe" scissors in our house, I need a pair for very fine, precision cutting of pattern pieces for an applique project.  I purchased a pair of tonic Decoupage scissors.  I'll report on how they do. 

Photo from Amazon, purchased at AC Moore

Yes, there are a lot of pairs of scissors around this house.  At least I've gotten out of the habit of tossing them in my purse... that habit almost got me in a lot of trouble (and did not please the gentlemen at the security checkpoint at Chester County Court Administration one bit....)

Do you have a favorite pair?  When shopping for a knife in a good kitchen store, the staff will tell you that the best knife is the one you will use.  Do you have a pair of scissors you use most -- whether they're the pretty ones or just the ones that fit "just so" in your hand?

Marguerites for Marguerite

Saturday, September 5 was the elevation of my friend and apprentice-sister Marguerite. It was Marguerite we helped recently with her garb for the occasion (on which occasion I did eyelets).

For her cloak (in this case a period appropriate coat), our Laurel put out a call for embroidered daisy motifs.  (Marguerite = Daisy).

These daisies were based on an image in the Grandes Heures d'Anne de Bretagne:

Just a little different than the daisies that might be in your garden, with that blush rising from the yellow center and deep burgundy tip.

I received fabric (a lovely very dark blue silk taffeta) and a list of colors of Splendor to use,  The fabric had one daisy already drawn and two more diamonds in which to place the remaining ones.





Daisy one:  Stem stitch stems, satin stitch for the bud (both the green and the pinks), long and short stitch filling the petals starting with white and moving out to the darker pink.  Once the petals were done I was not happy with the amount of definition, so I used the lighter pink and went over the dividing lines between petals.  For the center first I did one round of chain stitch, then satin stitch for the center, then the inner round of chain stitch over the edges of the satin stitch to make a cleaner edge.

I was pleased with the sharpness of the satin stitch there on that bud

Daisy two: Satin stitch stems, split stitch bud, split stitch petals with split stitch outlining (lighter pink). The tips of the petals are highlighted with the darker pink with just a few over stitches at each tip.  Center is chain stitch, satin stitch and laid threads couched at the intersections with tiny Xs.

Yup, that' my signature there, it's outside the diamond so won't be showing once it's mounted to the coat.

For the darker pink tip on the bud, I changed needles on a couple rounds of the split stitch.

Daisy three: Split stitch stems and bud.  A mix of long and short and split stitches for the petals, again going back over the tips with the darker pink.  After setting the circle with chain stitch, the middle was done with repeating rays from the center for a different look to the satin stitch.  This was executed by starting at the center and placing four stitches, quartering the circle.  Next each quarter was split, then I continued working around, dividing each space in half again until it was full.  The intention was to look a bit like the eyelets I did for her gown, without having an open hole in the center. 

I'm very happ with this center, though I feel these petals came out less differentiated.

Again the color was changed at the tip by changing the needle for those few stitches. I think I like this technique to blend colors and will investigate it further. 

Thursday again

Today is, once again, Thursday, and yesterday was A&S Night.  There has been some good progress since last week, and my student joined us again.

Last night's lesson was stem stitch and split stitch. I think next week I'm going to have to give her a better piece of fabric for her sampler, as the one she is working on is fighting her tension.  Maybe a better hoop, too.  Until now all my teaching has been "here are materials to get you started on the concept" but this time it's more long term, I think she deserves more long term materials.

I worked a little bit on my hemstitch piece, and the design for the work that will take up most of September was nailed down.

Current project list/status:

• Medallion for a coronation mantle -- THIS IS DONE and will be the subject of an October post (after reveal).  I am overall happy with this piece.  I was tracking time -- just under 40 hours.

• Motifs for a Laurel cloak -- DONE.  All three motifs done and sent on.  This will quite possibly be the subject of Monday's post.

• Motifs for coronation cloaks (different coronation) -- Sizes have been determined, fabric chosen and (I believe) ordered and by the end of this weekend I expect to have the pattern pieces ready.  This will be applique, as the best way to get four rather large motifs done in time -- and since they can be assembled without the final cloaks in hand, then applied at the end.
• Planning for teaching.  Also in October (boy, October's a big month for my work), I'll be teaching German Brick Stitch at a demo.  I need to assemble kits and maybe frame up a piece to be working on.

• Marshall Hanging -- the very large Bayeux inspired piece that I've been working on (on and off) for just about forever.  Deadline, June 2016. I expect there will be an update post shortly. No additional work this week.

• Hem stitched square -- about half way through the third side.  Currently my travel piece. A few more stitches were done last night, but planning communications, teaching and headache intervened -- some work is just too fine to do with a headache :)  With no deadline, and just for me just for fun, I'm ok with slow progress on this one.

• Additional couching & laid work pieces. The June 2016 deadline is for a very special presentation to the East Kingdom embroidery guild, Keepers of Athena's Thimble.  In addition to the master work of the Marshall Hanging, I need supporting pieces in other forms of laid and couched work.  There will be posts as these are done. Some research and Pinteresting have been done.

Tools -- Trolly Needle.

What's your favorite needlework tool?  There are a lot of them.  There are the "usual" -- scissors, hoops, scroll frames, even slate frames.

Have you used a Trolley Needle* though?

The Trolley Needle is a particular kind of laying tool.  It is used to control the thread as you work with it.  
 It looks like an odd open thimble with a needle sticking out of it.

Mainly because it is.


 It sits on your thumb (the open back makes it adjustable) so while you work you can manipulate it.  I wear mine on my left thumb, which is my non-dominant hand.

For this example stitch, I have the fabric in a small hoop.  It also works nicely when working on a hoop or frame being held by a stand.  With some practice, it can be used when stitching "in hand" as well.

Here is the progression of working with the Trolley Needle.  It is very similar to working with any laying tool, the difference being that only your thumb needs to move and, as long as you are careful, you can do other things with it on your thumb. Others may not have the same problem I do with hand held laying tools -- I constantly put it down, and have to search for it!

Place the needle portion over the line of the stitch and bring your stitching needle up next to it.

Plunge the needle back into the fabric where the stitch next goes.

Pull the stitch over the Trolley Needle.... 

Gradually pulling the Trolley Needle out from under the stitch. 

Here I've separated the threads, but the laying tool helped keep them side by side instead of twisting around each other.

Using a Trolley Needle, or other laying tool, helps keep your stitches plump and smooth -- they fill the area nicely.  They are particularly useful for satin stitch, but even for split stitch and stem stitch they are useful.  One thing I particularly like about using the Trolley Needle is that if I need to, I can then pull that stitch out of the way just a touch for coming up on the next stitch for a stem stitch.

So, what is your favorite "not the usual" needlework tool?"

* Note, the link is to the entry on Amazon.  This is not an endorsement of Amazon particularly, and many local needlework stores and other on line vendors carry the Trolley Needle. Amazon was an easy link, that's all.