Joy also in the simple

While I work on the early stages of a couple of projects (research, design, material selection), I am also working on some clothing to be worn to SCA events -- known as garb.

My husband, for instance, is in desperate need of a new shirt and a tunic that is not "kitchen grub wear."

Wednesday and this weekend I started on the shirt.  Since I use pretty much the same pattern for both the shirt and the tunic (with the tunic just a little larger to allow for being over the shirt), this allows me to confirm my latest measurements and iteration of the pattern.

My basic tunic pattern, based on one found on the 'net a number of years ago.

And the cutting layout for 60" fabric.
A = shoulder to shoulder (use the larger, front or back)
B = 1/2 arm hole opening circumference
C = 1/2 underarm measurement
D = length of sleeve
E = circumference of fist
Gore length is A-B, not A-D as in the picture
Remember to add ease and seam allowances

I was lucky enough to find that some of that white linen (you remember the pile of white linen, right), was actually *washed* white linen, so I was able to press that and get right to work.  I cut out the nine pieces a shirt/tunic takes -- four sleeve pieces, four gore pieces and the main body piece.  That took longer than maybe it should, because I cut the big pieces by pulling a thread and cutting in the channel caused.  It's time consuming, but it does mean that the straight edges are straight.

I then cut out the four sleeve pieces using a pattern piece I drafted from the measurements I had.  The gores were last.  I cut a piece the right length for two gore lengths, then measured the top measurement required on each end, drew a diagonal and cut. I also rounded off the extra corner on that gore triangle.

Having ironed the pieces again (it's linen, it gets ironed often during construction), I sewed the sleeves to the gores and the top seam on the sleeves.  Those seams I did on my machine.  After pressing open the seams, and folding them in, however, I did the finishing by hand with linen thread.

I also prepared the neck opening.  This is MUCH easier when the main body piece is all one long piece.  I folded it in half at the eventual shoulder line, then in half long way.  I ironed those folds very well (though only a few inches down on the long fold), thus marking the center.  I took a circle of paper the correct size, folded it quarters to find the center, then also in thirds.  I placed the circle, lining the folds up with the folds on the linen, using one of the thirds fold lines so that the circle sat 1/3 to the back and 2/3 to the front.  Drew around my pattern and carefully cut out the circle.  That opening I finished by roll hemming. The tunic neckline will be treated a little differently.

Shirt or shift neckline cutting.
The green would be the fashion fabric and the white circle is the cutting guide piece.
A slit could be added down the front, but I usually keep the shirts and shifts round. 

The final step I've taken so far is to pin the sleeve/gore pieces to the main body piece, lining up the sleeve seams with the center shoulder seam on each side.

That's where it stands now.  I'll report again when the shirt is done.