Monday, February 29, 2016

Applique Research

One of the supporting projects for the expert panel is to be an example of "couched cord around applique."  I've played with a couple of ideas for this project, with none of them really "sticking."  Then, I heard about the heraldic display challenge for Mudthaw.  Heraldic banner -- that's it!

Applique is great for banners and hangings.  It is a great way to cover a large area of fabric with a design, and is (or can be) quick to do.  Because of the usual "up there" nature of the display of banners, it is also usually a less "fussy" form of embroidery.  (Applique can also be very very fussy, but that's not what I'm going to be doing).  It is also a form that spans centuries.

So, I started looking at banners with applique and couched cord.

There's this Spanish banner at the Met.
Banner, Spanish 1596. Met Accession No. 58.172 Gift of Melvin Gutman

And then there's this long Spanish one at the Boston Museum of Fine Art.


For quite a while these two pieces were vying for the place of honor as the "inspiration piece" for my project.

Tab from a banner
Ashmolean Accession No.  EA 1984.134
However, there is another group of applique that really sings to my heart -- several pieces of Egyptian work like this one at the Met and this one at the Ashmolean.
Fragment, 13th-14th century Egypt. Met Accession No. 1974-1131



Fragment Late 14th to Mid 15th Century
Met Accession No. 1972.120.2
Fragment Late 15th to Early 16th Century
Met Accession No. 1972.120.3

Those examples do not have the couched cord around the appliqued figures, but this and this one at the Met do.






My final design is a bit of an amalgam of these.  It will be a banner of linen on linen, using mostly white or off white.  To use SCA heraldry, there will also be blue and gold -- as the final banner will display the household badge my husband and I registered.

This weekend I'll be pulling out fabrics and getting the pieces cut.  I may have to actually fabricate cord from silk threads, but we'll see.  This may mean another trip to Fireside, but since I'll be heading there Saturday for the final shopping for my class the following weekend, that's not a problem.

Thursday, February 25, 2016

Status report

Once again, it is Thursday.  Amazing how it keeps coming up. So, here's my "keep Elizabet honest" post:

Current project list/status (SCA/Historic):
  • Project X for C&L-- Has been revealed as pelican medallions for a friend's cloak -- the "Convent Stitch" piece.  This is DONE and has been added to the DONE - Historic page. 
  • Applique piece for C&L -- A challenge has inspired me.  I have my design planned out.  Not using what I originally planned to use as my inspiration piece, but I'm very happy with my plan.  This will be an entry for the heraldry display at Mudthaw. 
  • Couched cord piece for C&L -- I have looked at a few design inspiration ideas for something to do on my husband's tunic for this element.
  • Class for February and March.  I've done a bit more of the sample stitching for this class on German Brick Stitch.   Here is more info about the March event for those who might be interested -- at that event it will be an intensive class.  Kit registration ends this weekend. I taught the one hour class again last weekend and have some ideas both for revising that a little bit and for the big class.  On the wind up for that now.   
  • Marshall Hanging -- No, nothing new.    
  • Hem stitched square -- This is officially my current "work on at events" project.  At the same event last weekend I learned some more open work, and am now deciding whether to make this square an overall open work piece or do that on something different.
  • That silk tunic I did for my husband -- still need to pull that out and get the seam finishing done, and maybe plan some more embroidery for it. 
  • Other garb waiting in the wings... Also in planning are a couple more coifs -- and shifts and shirts.  

Current project list/status (Modern)
  • Bay of Fundy Scarf.  Got a fair amount done on my trip last weekend, and it is now my companion for work again.  I usually get in early and can put in a couple rows then, and again at lunch if not embroidering. 
  • Clothing for work.  Guess what, that hem still hasn't been done.  On the other hand, I've found a website with some patterns that have me kind of excited.  Mostly they take zippers.  Here's the thing, I have never been happy with my zipper work.  However.... 
  • Zipper class.  In March I'm going to be taking a class just on zippers!  Once that's done I have some patterns I want to check out.  
  • Studio project. A number of things have migrated back to the studio (where, admittedly, they belong), and a few things in the studio need to come out.  I need to determine a day each month for specifically concentrating on getting everything back to where it belongs, which should help keep this room organized. This has not happened in January, though I may be able to carve some time out this weekend.
Blog notes:
  • Still working on a three day a week pattern -- Monday for SCA/Medieval/Renaissance related; Tuesday for post 1600 to modern related and Thursdays for status updates.
  • I'm also considering a couple other pages -- one for links to museums and other excellent web resources, and one for a bibliography (with appropriate links).  Any requests? 
So, that's it for my plans for the coming weeks.  

Tuesday, February 23, 2016

The Pink Palace

A bit over five years ago, my husband and I took a "grand tour" trip -- visiting friends and family.  One of the places we went was Tennessee.  While there we went to Memphis and visited The Pink Palace Museum.  It is actually several museums in one, including natural history and cultural history.  Truly a treasure trove for anyone interested in early Southern history -- including textiles. 


One of the highlights of this varied museum include a full size walk through of the first Piggly Wiggly, including canned and boxed staples, and a pharmacy counter for both medications and beauty products.




Another of the highlights is the Clyde Parke miniature circus.  
Just a small portion of this wonder
But, you're here to read about textiles, and the museum does not disappoint.  Throughout the exhibits showing the history of Memphis and the mid-South, there are examples of clothing, needlework, spinning and weaving, and even this lovely chatelaine. 












 These are the kinds of museum displays I love -- showing the ways people lived, and often tying them to our own stories.  So, if you find yourself in Memphis, break away from the music and food and spend a day at the Pink Palace.  



Monday, February 22, 2016

Teaching .. and an update

First, about the teaching

For the past two weekends I have had the opportunity to teach about German Brick Stitch.  This was the "shorter, one hour, small motif" version of the class I am working on for March (at this event).

The models for the one hour one motif class.
First, was in Delaware.  I had a total of 10 students (it's a good thing I always bring a few extras of materials!).  Walking in skill level ranged from complete novice to very experienced in other counted forms.  I believe the students enjoyed the class and walked away interested in the form.  I did give myself a few "notes" -- things to work on or change, and I made a couple of changes to the handout as a result.

Then, just this past weekend I taught again in Massachusetts. This time I had 12 students (I think, that number is based on the the fact that I walked in with 13 hand outs and out with 1).  Again, I think the students enjoyed it. In fact, I know one did, as she has posted that she now wants to German Brick Stitch all the things. Here is a picture of her completed piece:
Completed class project by Susan Young
I have again walked away with some thoughts and changes to make.  I plan to make those changes to the handout for the one hour class and then adjust it so that it can be put on the web as a self directed project. 

For those who want more information on German Brick Stitch, I recommend the website of Master Richard Wymarc. I provided copies of one of his pages with the class, and the chart for this motif comes from his materials.  Such a lucky man to have been able to spend so much time studying the pieces at the V&A.  I hope that my students visit his site and continue to grow in the form.

Now, for the update. Do you remember this post about the Pel/Laurel medallion I did for a coronation cloak?  That would be this one:

Well, the event in Delaware was a royal progress, and I was amazed to hear my own name called out to approach Her Majesty of the East.  Her Majesty of Meridies had arranged for my Queen to be her hands to present me with the Meridian Majesty, name me an Embroiderer to her Court and present me with her token.  I was very lucky no one approached me with a feather, because I would have been on the ground.  I remain touched and honored.  During the week that followed a video was posted of my Laurel and my apprentice sister receiving the same award and honors for that cloak, at, we believe, about the same time. 

Now, on to finish writing the longer Brick Stitch class, and more work on Couching and Laid work pieces!  If you took either class, I'd love to receive photos of your completed project -- I'll be setting up a "classes" page and will include them there.  


Thursday, February 18, 2016

A late Thursday post....

Today is my Friday since I have tomorrow off, so of course I forgot to do my "keeping honest" post.  Here it is:

Current project list/status (SCA/Historic):
  • Project X for C&L-- Has been revealed as pelican medallions for a friend's cloak -- the "Convent Stitch" piece.  This is DONE and was the subject of Monday's post. It will be on the DONE page probably next week since I'm working on stuff for teaching.
  • Applique piece for C&L -- A challenge has inspired me.  There will be more on this next week.
  • Couched cord piece for C&L -- I have looked at a few design inspiration ideas for something to do on my husband's tunic for this element.
  • Class for February and March.  I've done a bit more of the sample stitching for this class on German Brick Stitch.   Here is more info about the March event for those who might be interested -- at that event it will be an intensive class.  Kit registration has been extended.  I taught the smaller version last weekend, have revised the handout a little bit and am working on the materials to teach it this coming weekend.  
  • Marshall Hanging -- No, nothing new.    
  • Hem stitched square -- This is officially my current "work on at events" project.  
  • That silk tunic I did for my husband -- still need to pull that out and get the seam finishing done, and maybe plan some more embroidery for it. 
  • Other garb waiting in the wings... Also in planning are a couple more coifs -- and shifts and shirts.  

Current project list/status (Modern)
  • Bay of Fundy Scarf.  The slightly over half done scarf is patiently waiting for its time to return.  Gift knitting is done and this may get to return to rotation soon, though I'm pretty embroidery-focused right now. It will be my car companion for the upcoming trip to Massachusetts.
  • Clothing for work.  Guess what, that hem still hasn't been done.  On the other hand, I've found a website with some patterns that have me kind of excited.  Mostly they take zippers.  Here's the thing, I have never been happy with my zipper work.  However.... 
  • Zipper class.  In March I'm going to be taking a class just on zippers!
  • Studio project. A number of things have migrated back to the studio (where, admittedly, they belong), and a few things in the studio need to come out.  I need to determine a day each month for specifically concentrating on getting everything back to where it belongs, which should help keep this room organized. This has not happened in January, though I may be able to carve some time out this weekend.
Blog notes:
  • Still working on a three day a week pattern -- Monday for SCA/Medieval/Renaissance related; Tuesday for post 1600 to modern related and Thursdays for status updates.
  • I'm also considering a couple other pages -- one for links to museums and other excellent web resources, and one for a bibliography (with appropriate links).  Any requests? 
So, that's it for my plans for the coming weeks.  

Tuesday, February 16, 2016

Another book

Another of the books that is on my shelves that I often recommend is Carolyn Ambuter's The Open Canvas.  That link will take you to the Amazon page for this book which, while out of print, is quite easy to find.


The book is divided into six "books:" Pulled Canvas (or diverted thread), Neeedleweaving, Hemstitching, Filet (or Lacis), Hardanger, and Reticello and Hedebo.

Each book has eight to ten lessons.  The first for each is Canvas Preparation and the remaining lessons take the student through the steps of the type of embroidery to complete a sampler and one or more other patterns or proejcts. Each lesson is further broken down into steps.    All of the designs are modern (or were in 1982), but the techniques learned apply to historical works of the same types. There is a section of color photographs in the middle.

All of the stitch diagrams are clear, with more complex working broken down by steps and marked.

For example, the Filet section has this tray insert as one of the projects:




Lesson one of Filet covers canvas preparation (as it does for every section).

Lesson two covers cloth stitch and shows use of it in several ways.












Here is the beginning of Lesson 2A, Squares in cloth stitch.  Using both photographs and line drawings with detailed discussion, the student is taken step by step through the work.






This book is a common reference for me both for Medieval based work and more modern work.  I highly recommend picking up a copy if you come across one.

Monday, February 15, 2016

Pelicans for Mael Eoin

Another project can be revealed!  A number of months ago I was approached by a friend to do embroidery for a Pelican cloak* for her husband. She gave me the date of the planned event, and I consulted my calendar.

Now, as those who follow this blog probably know, I am working on projects which will be the body of supporting work when I present for Expert ranking some time this summer in the East Kingdom embroidery guild Keepers of Athena's Thimble in the Couching and Laid work category.  Since as much of my work as possible needs to be towards that end, I suggested an embroidery that would apply, and my friend agreed.

Next was research.  There are a number of pelican in piety images that are commonly used in the SCA, but I wanted something a little different.  The recipient has a 12th Century persona, so I went looking for a 12th Century depiction of the pelican.  I found a lovely website with lots of pelican pictures: http://bestiary.ca/beasts/beastgallery244.htm. Among the pictures was this one, which simply called out to me.  

It is from MS 89/54, Folio 6, Groosteminarie Library, Bruges, which contains an Aviary of Hugh of Fouilloy, dated to ca. 1190-1200. I suggested to my friend two small medallions on the shoulders of the cloak based on this illustration, reversed to face each other, done in the laid and couched technique known as convent stitch.  

No, convent stitch is not actually period to the time of the illustration -- this was an "SCA stretch." It was, however the only way I could fit doing this project in my time schedule and she was happy with the presented design and plan.  

I used some nice sturdy linen from my stash and Splendor silks to execute the design.  My "artist" was, as in many of my projects, a good clear print out of the source picture traced, then copied at ratio to fit the size desired and reversed, also on the copier.  This was in lieu of my own art skills (negligible, tracing is kind of the limit of it), and an in house artist. 


First, the outlines, ribbons of blood and feet were done in stem stitch.  I used two strands of splendor for the outlining.  I used a lighter shade for the outlines of the baby birds than for the mother bird.  Should I do such a project again, I would use the same for both, as I think there is not quite enough contrast on the baby birds from a distance.  
Anyone else thinking "vampire birds" here?  
Next, I filled the bird bodies with convent stitch, using a lighter shade in each instance. One aspect of convent stitch that was interesting to me is that it is all straight up and down.  Unlike other embroidery forms, even other laid and couched forms, there is no definition provided by using different directions.  

Next, a nice deep blue (chosen in conference with my friend) for filling in the background.  It wasn't until I was nearly done filling in the first one that it occurred to me to mark the couching lines. and now the babies have no legs.  
Neither of those bother me much, Most people will see these from a distance. This is primarily a ceremonial item, and only those who are really good friends will be close enough to see that the lines are not perfectly straight.  

I did find that silk does not really want to play at convent stitch.  Wool, which is the fiber used in many extant pieces, would "fluff up" and fill in for better coverage than the silk.  I compensated by taking extra stitches after an area was done if I felt the couching had opened up the laid stitches to allow too much of the background through. 

The final touch was dark gold chain stitch around the outline, which added a pop of color, a good sewing place for mounting, and helped to even off the edges a little bit. 



My friend brought over the cloak that had been made by someone else (and a lovely cloak it is, too), and I hung it on my dress form and positioned the medallions.  I carefully whip stitched them in place, catching only the cloak (not the lining) all the way around.  



Now that it has been presented, the recipient and I will get together at some point, with him in appropriate garb, to check the positioning and adjust if necessary. I'll try to get some good shots of him in the cloak and do a follow up post.

Another really cool aspect is that part of the elevation includes a scroll -- here is a picture of the scroll done by Natalia Anastasiia Evgenova -- she used the same illustration.  No, we didn't coordinate that! I'm going to call it "great minds thinking alike!"

Photo by Photo by Constable Calin Macsalny of Barony Bhakail
*Yes, this is an SCA thing.   For those not in the SCA, the Order of the Pelican is the society wide honor given for service.  Typically a cloak or other outer garment is given, usually with a depiction of a "pelican in her piety."

Thursday, February 4, 2016

Thursday again

Happy Thursday.  Plenty of stitching, but not actually a lot of progress:

Current project list/status (SCA/Historic):
  • Project X for C&L -- the "Convent Stitch" piece.  Outlines are done and the figures have been filled in on one of the two motifs.  Finished the first motif with only one change of thread.
  • Couched cord piece for C&L -- Nothing new.
  • Applique piece for C&L -- Nothing new.
  • Class for February and March.  I've done a bit more of the sample stitching for this class on German Brick Stitch.   Here is more info about the March event for those who might be interested -- at that event it will be an intensive class.  However, I'm also teaching it twice in February as a smaller class, at this event and this event.  
  • Marshall Hanging -- No, nothing new.    
  • Hem stitched square -- This is officially my current "work on at events" project.  
  • That silk tunic I did for my husband -- still need to pull that out and get the seam finishing done, and maybe plan some more embroidery for it. 
  • Other garb waiting in the wings... Also in planning are a couple more coifs -- and shifts and shirts.  

Current project list/status (Modern)
  • Bay of Fundy Scarf.  The slightly over half done scarf is patiently waiting for its time to return.  Gift knitting is done and this may get to return to rotation soon, though I'm pretty embroidery-focused right now.
  • Clothing for work.  Guess what, that hem still hasn't been done.  On the other hand, I've found a website with some patterns that have me kind of excited.  Mostly they take zippers.  Here's the thing, I have never been happy with my zipper work.  However.... 
  • Zipper class.  In March I'm going to be taking a class just on zippers!
  • Studio project. A number of things have migrated back to the studio (where, admittedly, they belong), and a few things in the studio need to come out.  I need to determine a day each month for specifically concentrating on getting everything back to where it belongs, which should help keep this room organized. This has not happened in January, though I may be able to carve some time out this weekend.
Blog notes:
  • Still working on a three day a week pattern -- Monday for SCA/Medieval/Renaissance related; Tuesday for post 1600 to modern related and Thursdays for status updates.
  • I'm also considering a couple other pages -- one for links to museums and other excellent web resources, and one for a bibliography (with appropriate links).  Any requests? 
So, that's it for my plans for the coming weeks.  

Tuesday, February 2, 2016

Some modern resources for supplies.

I want to preface this blog post by saying I have no financial affiliation with any of the companies I'm about to list.  They are some of my "go to" places for fiber related supplies.  This is not an exhaustive list, it's the first handful that I can think of.

First, I always suggest your local needlework, yarn, sewing/quilting store if you have one.  Even if they don't carry what you're particularly looking for, if you develop a relationship they may be able to order in stuff.  There is also no substitute for the joy of what I call browsing the colors.  Even if I walk away with nothing, I get a creative burst just from being in a place surrounded by the materials of my art(s). (Though I usually find *something* to buy.)  By "your local store" I do not mean the big box craft stores, though they have their places.

Fireside Stitchery -- This is my "local needlework shop."  They primarily cater to modern needlepoint, but happily sell (and talk) threads and materials with anyone.  They also do mail order and will order in materials requested.  Fireside carries most of the silk threads that I commonly use, as well as both DMC and Anchor stranded floss, Kreinik metalics, linen threads, and a wide variety of specialty threads.  I rarely leave without one of their little plastic bags with something in it.

Nordic Needle -- This is an excellent website for many basic supplies.  They also sell many of the embroidery fabrics available -- and many of them by the inch.  For them, by the inch means a full bolt width and the number of inches ordered.  They also have most of the more common cuts available for most fabrics.  Nordic Needle has a wide focus, and is particularly famous for their Hardanger supplies and designs.  They do have a store, in Fargo, ND -- so there are people for whom they are the local needlework store.

Threadneedle Street -- This is another website selling a large variety of threads, fabrics and other supplies. They also sell the new manufacture of DMC Medici.  So far, this is the only thing I've bought from them, though the experience was very good and I expect they will see more of my business. Threadneedle is a local needlework store for anyone in or near Issaquah WA.

Lacis -- Another store that is far away but also as close as my computer.  This California company has a focus on historic needlework and is one of my sources for both linen threads of different weights and metallic threads.  I have gotten some great tools and other supplies from them as well.

Knit Picks is one of the websites I go to for yarn, and one of the catalogs that is referred to as "oh, here's danger" when it hits our mailbox.  Low prices on decent yarn, making experimenting in knitting a reasonable thing to do.

Webs is another website for yarn -- and a local store for Northampton, MA.  I've been a couple of times thanks to the fact that I seem to keep going to events in Massachusetts. I have not actually experienced their web/mail order interface but the people there are fantastic, and I always leave with several new projects on my list.

Well, there are lots more, and this is the beginning of a new page I'll be setting up -- "Resources."

Oh, and those big box craft stores?  In my area that means ACMoore, Michaels and JoAnn's.  Well, they get plenty of my business as well :)

Monday, February 1, 2016

Some on line goodies

My wonderful trip to New York to see their exhibit which included many period embroidery books had me doing a little poking.  There are a number of design sources on line, including scans of some embroidery designs.

One is Johann Siebacher's Schön  Neues Modelbuch von allerley lustigen Mödeln naczunehen, zuwürcken unn zusticken, found here.  You can download a pdf of the book, or just view it.

Here is a lovely page from this book.  St. George is a common image -- and those lovely stars in the lower design are also very common in many forms of embroidery.

Image 00063

There are also pages with needle lace patterns:
Image 00083

Another one that is available on line is Federico Vinciolo's I Singolari E Nuovi Disegni. The Dover edition of this book is one of the first ones I bought when I first started doing historically based embroidery.  It is available on several sites, here is one.  This one will be familiar to many as "the purple cover."   The Vinciolo also has both charted designs and needle lace patterns.

In fact, one of the charted designs is one that I used for one of my earliest pieces done for the SCA.  I did this stag in several forms -- canvas, free and blackwork -- each of them a little bag.  I was originally going to do it in all 12 of the Athena's Thimble categories (though I haven't figured out how I was going to accomplish it in a couple of the forms).  Perhaps some day I'll come back to that plan.


Here's a picture of the canvas work stag.


One of the groups I am in on Facebook is Historic Hand Embroidery.  There, a link was given to a blog post of a list of modelbuchs, including links to ones that are on line.  I forsee an afternoon of clicking and downloading :)  Here is the Modelbuch list.

There are a couple of things to remember about these books:  They are very "late period" to people in the SCA, they freely "borrowed" from each other (you will find designs repeated across books), and unlike today's pattern books, they give no guidelines as to how the embroider was to be executed.  There are no color keys, no stitch diagrams, no materials lists.

So, as I continue to work on the pieces for my upcoming classes and for my big couching & laid project, I am also building up my "to do" list as I peruse these books.  It may be time to make some lists.